Seminars from Scotland (The Ancient Art of Distilling Scotch)     7&8/97

by Del Meyer, MD

Last summer, we were invited to a Scottish Seminar at La Boheme restaurant. There were several people from Scotland in Kilts who were presenting a slide show of Scotland and the distilleries for which they are famous. While California has over a thousand wineries, Napa Valley with two hundred vintners is the most widely known. Scotland has over a hundred single malt scotch whiskey distilleries in several distinct regions.

The Speyside region along the River Spey contains the greatest concentration of malt whisky-making apparatus in the world with more than 40 malt distilleries in operation in this region. These were illicit operations until an Act of Parliament in 1823 legalized their use.

The Highlands region spreads around Speyside to the North Sea. This is more sparse with over 30 malt distilleries. The Lowlands, once the most populous region, has only a few remaining distilleries located along the Highland borders. The products of the Highlands, which were considered wholesome and hand-crafted, were in great demand in the urban markets. The larger Lowland distillers produced a relatively coarse whisky in huge industrial stills in an effort to supply both the city drinkers and the lucrative London market.

Of all Scotland’s malts, the Islays are the most characteristic. This is due to the production methods developed in concert with the available distilling ingredients. The Islay distillers supplied a local market from stills--both legal and illegal--which were operated from farmyards, bothies on the bleak moors, and remote caves along the precipitous coast of the Oa. Many are still available to accommodate visitors. The Islays should be approached with great respect since their malts are considered as essential components by master-blenders who have created the blends which have been the bedrock of the Scotch Whisky industry’s success the world over. It is thought that the art of distilling was brought to Scotland via Islay by the Irish in the 15th century.

Archeological findings a few years ago on the Island of Rhum in the Inner Hebrides suggest that the natives knew how to make a brew long before the Irish were credited with introducing the art of distillation to their Scottish cousins. The makers of Glenfiddich, one of Scotland's more widely known single malts, even went so far as to try and recreate the original 4000-year-old recipe which was scientifically reconstructed from scrapings off pottery shards. Some of the other islands, such as Skye and Orkney, have developed their own individual traditional tastes.

After the history lesson, the "professor" at the La Boheme restaurant explained the five basic steps to single malt production. MALTING: Barley is the only grain permitted in the production of single malt whisky and this must be "malted." This means the barley is soaked in water for 3 days and allowed to germinate. Two enzymes are produced during malting which convert the sugars to alcohol. Malting takes 8-12 days. The green malt is then dried over a peat fire for two days.

MASHING: The dry malt is moved to a mill and ground into "malt grist." The "malt grist" is fed into a large vat called a "Mash Tun" containing hot water where the solubles are extracted. The resulting liquid contains "maltose" which is a semi-transparent sweetish liquid known as "wort." This procedure takes about 8 hours to complete.

FERMENTATION: The "wort" is transferred into another large vat called a "Wash Back" where yeast is added and fermentation begins. After 2-3 days a liquid made up of water, yeast, and 5% alcohol is left, called "wash."

DISTILLATION: During this stage, the "wash" is distilled into alcohol. Most distilleries use two distillations. This first produces a liquid called "light wines." This is distilled a second time producing a fiery spirit that is about 115 proof. A third and the most expensive distillation produces the lighter and smoother product.

MATURATION: After distillation, the product bears little resemblance to good Scotch whisky. It must be aged to become palatable. The proof is reduced with spring water to 110, stored in oak casts, which have previously been used to store Bourbon or Sherry, and left in a damp warehouse, to mature. At the end of maturation, which usually takes from 5 to 29 years, the proof is usually reduced to 86 and bottled. However, one on our menu was 105 proof.

After an hour lecture with a sampling of hors d'oeuvres offered by Restauranteur Alex Klaib of La Boheme, we were instructed in the Art of Single Malt Tasting. It was every bit as complex as wine tasting.

Six Classic Malts were selected to typify regional differences by highlighting individual characteristics. They represent six distilleries which have gained recognition from independent malt experts for producing fine, characterful and distinctive malts. Each malt is authentic and traditional with its own identity, the best of each area inherent in both taste and aroma with balance between taste, age, and the several regions represented.

There is a ceremony in the tasting. We were given glasses with a wide waist and narrow rim to capture and concentrate the aroma far better than a conventional whisky tumbler. White wine glasses were used although tulip style glasses are preferred by some. A measure of malt was poured for each of the participants. We were told to warm the glass for a moment in our hands, then swirl and inhale the "nose." A Scot would never put ice in his or her scotch which constricts this aroma.

Although there are those who prefer to sip a malt like cognac, the more general custom in Scotland is to add a little water before proceeding. We were given Highland Spring water and cautioned never to use sparkling water. We were then advised to "nose" again to discover how the water unlocks a more complex character. Only after the second "nose" were we advised to allow ourselves the pleasure of sipping "uisge beatha."

During the course of the year there were other "seminars," lectures, and tastings at the Terrace Grill, Piati’s, Canterbury Inn, and the Hyatt, with two returns to La Boheme. Bagpipe music completed some of the evenings after which some of the men and women retreated to the patios to sample a selection of allegedly fine cigars.

We met a number of people at these seminars and learned a lot about the industry and the art of "Scotch Tasting." Plaudits to Ted Kouri of Ernie’s for bringing Scotland to Sacramento since most of us can’t visit Scotland like we visit the Napa valley. It also provided a different environment to meet colleagues, other professionals, and a variety of interesting folks. Where else could you find a neurosurgeon wearing kilts sitting across the table from you?